Jewelry Vocabulary

Welcome to the world of jewelry!

by:  DK Designs Jewelry

TERMS TO KNOW

Alloy - Base metal mixed with precious ore to make it workable, harden it, or change its color.

Anodize - An electro-chemical process that creates a hard surface to accept dying

Antique - Object 100 years or older.

Antiquing - Process of darkening recessed areas

Art Deco - bold geometric and abstract patterns

Art Nouveau -sinuous, organic forms and elaborately curving lines

Articulated - Jewelry constructed with hinges or pivots

Assay - Process of establishing purity of gold, silver and other alloys

Bail - Connector at the top of a pendant

Bail: An oval-, teardrop-, or D-shaped metal component used to connect pendants to a chain

Baker setting: a round setting similar to the Tiffany Setting, but always four prong

Bangle:  a non-flexible or barely flexible bracelet

Baroque - Bold, ornate, heavy looking

Barrel Nut: A barrel-shaped clutch with a rubber-type insert that grips a pin

Basket Setting: An open-sided setting

Basse-taille - (bass-tie) Technique of applying glass enamel to a metal surface

Bead Cap: A metal ornament placed on a glass or stone bead to cover any roughness or damage

Bead Clasp:clasp mechanism that is hidden in a bead or pearl.

Bead Cone:metal cone shape which is used to secure and cover the ends of multiple strands of beading

Bead Tip: A concave metal piece, attached to a metal loop, used to attach thread to a clasp

Bead: Any small or rounded component, made from a variety of materials, with a hole through it

Belcher Setting: A ring mounting in which the claws for the setting are formed from the shank of the ring.

Bezel - A collar style setting for a gemstone

Bezel Cup: A type of setting designed to hold flat-backed stones in which the top of the setting is burnished over the stone to secure it in place

Bezel:a type of setting into which a continuous groove has been cut to fit a faceted stone

Bolo Slide:device that has a flat surface and tabs rolled into a tube formation on the back of the flat surfac

Box Setting: A square or rectangular grooved setting  generally used for mounting a stone on a ring or pendant

Breloque: A small item, such as a charm, designed to be suspended from a chain

Bunch Rings: Inexpensive rings with small center mountings : stack rings or stackable rings

Buttercup Setting: Typically used for pendants and earrings, this deep, six-prong setting is shaped vaguely like the buttercup flower.

Butterfly Clutch: A clutch that grips a grooved post

Button Loop Tie Holder: A metal piece with an indent in the middle for slipping over the button that goes behind the tie

Cameo - A layered stone, often banded agate, or sea shell carved with either a woman's profile, a man's profile, natural scenes or themes

Cannetille - Wirework decor using coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve delicate scrolling effects.

Cap: Cover hinged to the center of a watch case.

Cartouche - Swirling or scrolling decoration, often symmetrical and engraved as an embellishment

Case screw: Small screw with full or three-quarters head, designed to fasten a watch movement to its case.

Case spring: Spring which causes a hunting case lid to snap open when the crown is pressed.

Casting - Method of shaping metal by melting and pouring into hollow molds

Catch: In brooches, a piece of hardware designed to accept and lock a top wire or a pin-stem

Chain Tag: A flat metal piece, usually a small square or rectangle, with a hole in each end. Its specific function is to  carry the quality stamp or trademark of the manufacturer

Champlev - Enameling technique that fills routed, etched or cut area of metal with enamel. Usually copper or bronze.

Chandelier Finding: A finding, most often used on an ear ring, with a decorative drop or drops that hang down from the ear lobe and dangles like a chandelier.

Channel Setting - Gemstone setting method that fits stones of uniform size into a channel

Charm Hanger:holder is a jewelry finding which can be attached to a neck chain or cord with a jump ring or bail

Charm: A miniature object designed to be attached to a chain bracelet

Chasing - Method of decorating the front of metal objects indenting with shaped punches and chasing hammer

Chaton: A foil-backed glass or manmade stone

Chevron: Ornament made of lines joining at an angle

Choker: Short (generally 14-inch) necklace, usually of beads or pearls or chain.

Cinch Mount: A mount which surrounds only the girdle of a faceted stone or the rim of a cabochon

Clamp: A metal prong or claw on a gemstone setting. Also called a cramp.

Clasp: A fastening device, such as a catch or hook, used to hold two or more objects or parts together

Clip: A two-part piece attached to the back of an earring. The two pieces closed around the earlobe, using mechanical pressure to hold the earring in place. Photo and additional information.

Cloisonn� cloi-zon-ay Enameling technique

Collar: Molding in the shape of a ring or band around a piece or stone.

Collet: Decorative band or collar with top and bottom edges parallel; flange in which any kind of stone is set.

Comfort Disc:  A plastic disc that fits over the post of a pierced earring for greater comfort

Craquelees: Rock crystal stones artificially cracked or crazed by heating.

Crest: Any symbol, figure or device placed above the shield in a coat-of-arms design.

Crimp Bead: A very small piece of cut tubing used to finish off a strand of beads

Crimp Tube: A crimp bead made into a tubular shape rather than a round.

Damascene - Type of jewelry inlaid or engraved with gold or silver metals and black enamel; originated in  the 14th century in Damascus.

Dapping: An operation that adds a third dimension to a normally flat ornament - e.g. doming a flat ornament.

Demi-Parure - Partial set of jewelry. A full set usually includes a necklace, earrings, bracelet and brooch, all matching.

Diadem: Regal emblem

Die setting: Forming a flat piece of metal with hardened steel forms called dies

Dome: Any convex decoration. It can be made manually with a dapping block and a dapping punch

Doublet: Any stone made of two component parts, frequently genuine stones combined with glass, plastics, or synthetic stones.

Drop: A small ornament suspended from a piece of jewelry

Ear Nut: A clutch with a hole through which an earring post is attached to secure the earring to the earlobe

Ear Screw: A U-shaped ear wire with a threaded back, which clamps earrings to un-pierced ears

Ear Threads: Earring component  made of very small chains and a thin pin that thread through holes in the ears

Earring: Any ornament - button, clip, pendant shape etc. - attached to the lobe of the ear by screw, clip or wire.

Enamel - Glass powder or paste applied to metal then fired in an oven to solifify and fuse the glass onto the metal.

Engraving - Process of decorating metal by gouging a design into its surface

Enhancer: A bail-like finding that may be opened to fit over a strand of pearls or beads

Eternity ring: Band set with full or half circlet of stones given by a husband or wife as a pledge of undying love. Similar styles include: guard, caliber and insert rings.

Eye: A loop, made of wire or other material

Filigree: Ornamental work formed of bent wire that is soldered into delicate and complex designs

Fishhook: A fishhook-shaped finding used to make earrings

Flambeau: Ornament shaped like flame or torch-end.

Flat stock: Metal passed through successively narrow rolling mills; generally used for stamping.

Fleur-de-lis: Iris-shaped ornament, famous as the insignia of French royalty. Photo and additional information.

Fob: A chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch

Frame: A banded metal ornament designed to take a setting and stone-

French back: An earring in which one leg of a U-shaped wire is attached to the back of the ornament

French Clip: An alternative to a pierced earring, it incorporates a spring clip (tension on the ear is provided by a spring-loaded pad) and a pad-tipped screw

French Hook:  A non-closing ear wire shaped similar to a hook

Guard Chain: A small chain usually 2 to 3 inches

Guilloche - Enameling style of continuous decoration engraved by a lathe then covered with translucent enamel

Heishi Beads: Small shell or other disc beads, usually white, of American Indian origin.

High relief: Ornamental work in which designs are raised or stamped to stand out from the surface.

Hinge: Three-component assembly for joining; permits motion of a finding to complete its function as a piece of jewelry

Hoop: Metal wire or tubing that has been formed into individual rings

Illusion Setting: A type of prong setting containing a faceted metal plate that surrounds the girdle of a diamond,  thus making the diamond appear larger.

Incised: Engraved or cut

Intaglio - Carved gem where the design is created by incising into the stone making a negative pattern.

Invisible Setting - Setting style where rows of square cut gemstones rest flush edge to edge; all within a metal border or frame, with no metal separating individual gems.

Joint wire: Hollow wire or tubing formed by bending a strip of thick flat plate and drawing it through a drawplate until the desired diameter and opening are achieved

Joint, Catch, and Pin-Stem: An assembly used to affix jewelry items, such as brooches, to clothing

Jump Ring: A plain wire ring of any size, usually round or oval in shape, used for attaching jewelry parts

Kidney Wire: A wire, formed into a kidney shape, to which dangling earrings are attached

Knuckle: Tubular section that forms part of the hinge on the lid of a box, watch case or locket; the hinge pin fits into the knuckle.

La Loop Finding: An open ring or split ring with two swivels attached

Lapped Border: The polished edge of an item achieved by using a non-yielding surface, such as a stiff felt wheel or a wood wheel. It gives the appearance of a rounded edge.

Lavaliere: An ornament hanging from a chain, worn around the neck.

Lever Back: A hook-shaped ear wire that is hinged to a spring-loaded closure piece at the base of the hook

Lobster Claw: A clasp shaped somewhat like a lobster’s claw. The "pincer" arm is under tension by an internal spring mechanism that is opened and closed by a lever on its side

Locket Bail: An oval- or D-shaped metal component used to connect pendants, specifically lockets, to a chain.

Love knot: Generally three intertwined rings made from wire or tubing reformed or flattened as a group (after assembly) into regular or irregular shapes.

Low relief: Ornament in which designs are raised above a background surface, but raised only about half as high as in high relief

Low square setting: Usually the replacement for the upper half of a square prong setting; generally used for repairs.

Memory Wire: Flexible steel wire tempered to hold its coiled shape. Used for stringing beads.

Mesh: A finely woven metal fabric

Mounting - Device that holds a gem in place.

Mounting: A piece of jewelry onto which a stone or stones will be set. It can take several forms, such as a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, or a necklace.

Necklace Extender: A short length of chain, beaded chain or other necklace material with a connector on one end and a loop on the other

Necklet: A short necklace or chain - less than 18 inches in length.

Open setting: Stone setting with the sides open so that the lower portion of the stone is visible.

Opera Length - A necklace 48 to 90 inches long.

Ormolu - Gilded bronze or brass mounts.

Oval bead: Oval or teardrop-shaped metal bead, formed in a swaging process, and cut separately. See fancy bead.

Oval setting: A setting similar to the Tiffany setting, but made oval to accommodate oval-shaped stones.

Oxidation - Chemical process to blacken or tarnish. Slphur and oxygen is used on silver.

Pallions: Small pieces of solder.

Paste - Glass-based substance used to simulate gemstones and has become one slang term for all fake gemstones. Paste stones are lead crystals with high lead content and more brilliant than glass rhinestones.

Paternoster beads: Alternate term for Roster Beads.

Patina: Green film formed by oxidation on copper and bronze; can be formed naturally over a period of time through exposure to air

Pave - French for pavement or cobblestone; a field of small gems set so close together they create a continuous paved effect.

Pendant: An ornament designed to be suspended from a chain or necklace.  Photo and additional information.

Post: A pin-like finding attached to an earring. It passes through the pierced earlobe and is usually secured by a clutch

Press: Equipment used to stamp findings - can be a foot press, screw press, electric press, percussion press, hydraulic press etc.

Princess Cut - Highly faceted, square cut crystal similar to a brilliant cut, but adapted to a square shape to increase its brilliance and yield of the rough.

Prong setting - A gemstone held in place by small finger-like wires attached to a bezel and bent over the edges of the stone.

Regard - Acrostic jewelry, meaning   jewelry where the first letter of each type of stone spells out a word.

Rhinestone - A faceted stone made of glass.

Riviere - Single strand necklace of equally sized and cut gemstones.

Rope chain: Chain of fine wire in close spiral links, making it look like a rope.

Rosary: A chain of beads used by Roman Catholics to count devotional prayers.

Roundel: A doughnut-shaped or squatted disk shaped bead that is used as a spacer or an accent in stringing applications.

Safety Catch - One means of securing a brooch to a garment.

Sand Casting - Using molds to form cavities in casting sands that are then poured with molten gold.

Satin finish: A dull finish imparted by sandblasting, brushing with a stiff wire brush, or by chemical means; a soft luster rather than a high polish.

Scarf Clip: Hinged device that includes a flat surface to allow space to which an ornament is attached, and an open ring through which the scarf is pulled

Security post and nut: A push-on, screw-off post/nut unit for pierced earrings.

Semi-Mounting: A mounting that is only partially set. It usually has small side stones, but no main or center stone.

Setting - Method by which a stone is held into a mounting. - The part of jewelry into which stones are set.

Shank - Portion of a ring that encircles the finger.

Shepard Hook: A pierced earring wire shaped like a shepherd’s crook-similar to fishhook wire but with a longer shaft

S-hook Clasp: Two  flat stock findings with a matched appearance. One part is shaped like  the letter S, and the other part like the number 8

Shoulder - Portion of a ring between the shank and the center of the setting.

Signet - A personal seal once used to make wax impressions for signatures or authenticating a document.  The seal would usually be in reverse, so the impression in the wax could be viewed normally.

Sister Hook: Two overlapping metal hooks hinged to form a heart outline when open. Used as a clasp.   Photo and additional information.

Snake chain - A chain made up of round wavy metal rings joined side by side to form a flexible tube with a smooth, scaly texture like snake skin.

Soldering - Technique used in making and repairing jewelry whereby two pieces of metal are joined when a molten metal with a lower melting point than the two metals being joined is used.

Solitaire: Generally used to describe a ring with a single center stone, or the stone itself.

Spacer Bars: A flat metal component with holes which is used to keep strands of beads from crisscrossing in a multi-strand necklace

Split Ring: An oval or round ring inside of which the metal spirals and functions just like a split key ring

Stamping - Using a die set to cut or emboss metal with a mark

Swage:  To bend or shape cold metal using a tool or hammer.

Swivel: Used to attach watches or other finished jewelry items to a chain

Tallis Clip: Also known as an alligator clip or sweater clip. Usually embellished, then assembled with a chain in pairs.

Tap: A hard steel screw with fluted, hollow cutting edges to cut threads in a pre-formed hole.

Tempering: Reducing the hardness of hardened steel by gradual heating to stages less than annealing heat.

Torsade - Necklace fashioned from numerous stands of beads.

Total weight: Generally used for diamond jewelry but can be applied to any jewelry with small stones. It refers to the combined carat weight of all stones in the piece.

Vacuum coating: The deposition of an extremely thin metallic coating, generally on plastic or very inexpensive metals, by volatilization within a vacuum.

V-Bail: A two-loop bail that looks like a "V" from the front. Also known as a rabbit ear bail. Photo and additional information.   Thanks for visiting.  Please be sure to add your comments and check back.  I will be posting more tips shortly.  Thank you - Donna For beautiful designs visit: DK Designs Jewelry  Facebook: DKDesignsJewlery Twitter: @ DKDesignsJewel